Meet Your Maker: Japanese Denim Mills

Unlike the United States, which has only one remaining manufacturer of raw denim, Cone Mills, Japan is home to many active denim mills that churn out the cream of the world’s premium denim around the clock.

Japanese denim is renowned for both its quality and durability. The combination of processes used by the majority of the mills, including rope-dying and weaving on vintage shuttle looms, makes the denim produced in Japan so desirable and sought-after. In the close up images you can see some of the subtleties that set the Japanese mills apart from each other as well as apart from the rest of the world.

Kurabo Mills

Kurabo Milled Selvedge

The Kurabo Mills was founded over 110 years ago and it stands as one of the oldest manufactures of Japanese textiles today. The Kurabo Mill was the birthplace of Japanese selvedge denim and has pioneered many denim manufacturing practices that are in common use today.

These include using natural indigo dyes as well as a unique denim spinning and dyeing process that creates a very resilient denim with unique fading patterns. The quality of Kurabo Mills denim has earned them the respect of denim aficionados around the world.

Kurabo is most famous as being the denim that supplied Japan’s first denim brand, BIG JOHN. Today, Kurabo continues to works with many top of the denim brands in the industry including Baldwin, Epaulet, and many more.

Nisshinbo Mills

Nisshinbo Milled Denim

Nisshinbo  Mill was founded in 1907 with a focus on combining traditional Japanese textile manufacturing techniques and modern techniques with the aim producing only the finest products. Today they produce a wide range of textiles, but their most popular remains their ring-spun selvedge denim which is consistently regarded by denim enthusiasts to be second-to-none in terms of both quality and durability.

The company, previously focused on expansion, recently announced in a statement it is beginning to scale-down production choosing to focus more on the quality of their products rather than the quantity that they can produce.

Nisshinbo supplies denim to many popular brands including Left Field, Taylor Stitch, den.m bar, and more.

Kaihara Mills

Kaihara Milled Denim

Kaihara is a relative newcomer to the world of Japanese textiles. They were founded in 1951, some 50 years later than Kurabo or Nisshinbo, but they’ve managed to compete with the older mills through their innovations, particularly in rope dyeing.

Kaihara has a unique in-house rope dyeing technique not commonly used by other denim brands, allowing them to provide a unique high quality product that they export to a variety of brands in over 20 countries. In the 1990′s Kaihara acquired vintage shuttle looms and begin producing ring-spun selvedge denim on them, a product which remains one of their most popular favrics today.

Kaihara specializes in raw, sanforized denim. Today, Kaihara supplies brands like Evisu, Uniqlo, and Baldwin.

Japan Blue Group

Japan Blue Group Denim

The Japan Blue Group was founded only in 2005 and is comprised of various companies that represent different parts of the denim production process. Collect is the denim mill and fabric supplier; Rampuya is the dyeing division; and Japan Blue and Momotaro Jeans are the denim brands comprised of the components that Collect and Rampuya produce.

By integrating all elements of production into one company, the Japan Blue Group is able to tightly control every part of their process, guaranteeing the quality of the final products.

Momotaro is known for its high quality, and high priced denim, and Japan Blue is the more entry level, affordable line. As a whole, the Japan Blue Group has a philosophy that focuses on providing quality goods that combine old-world craftsmanship with modern designs rather than profits.

Kuroki Mill

Kuroki Milled Denim

The Kuroki Mill, located in the textile rich area of Okayama, Japan, is another relatively new denim mill which was founded in 1984. The company is divided into three parts that all focus on a different element of the production process in a similar structure to the Japan Blue Group.

The first department is called the dyeing department and it is where the denim is rope-dyed and sized for production. In the next department the denim is woven on shuttle looms which create the higly sought after selvedge lines. Finally, some denim is finished and washed while the majority of it is sold raw either sanforized or unsanforized.

Kuroki Mill supplies many top denim brands, including 3sixteen, Tellason, Taylor Stitch, and many more.

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Blown Out – A Prime Example

Crotch blowouts are inevitable as pretty much any well worn pair of denim will be beset at some point. Though for many this is just a part of the process that can be dealt with by the owner him or herself or a professional, it’s also forced numerous denim wearers to ask why it’s such a ubiquitous and unavoidable issue, and how it can be prevented.

Simply put, crotch blowouts happen since this area of the jeans endure the most amount tension during day-to-day life. The crotch area has to deal with an immense amount of abrasion as a result of much stretching and pulling through normal and everyday activities – i.e. when you walk, when you sit, etc.

There are, however, several other factors that also expedite blowouts:

• Buying your denim (too) tight: Though raw denim will allow for stretch over a period of time, it’s an uncompromising material that does have have its limits. Thus, if you’re buying a pair that is too tight, the tension on the crotch area is stronger, and the chance of a blowout is heightened. Thus, it should come as no surprise that we see a connection between slim fitting jeans and crotch rips and tears.
• Sagging (AKA lowriding) denim: Denim worn very low causes more stress to the crotch area while moving around; resulting in a higher likelihood of blowouts
• Cycling: Not to point the finger at any specific culprit, but cycling is a real crotch cracker. Up and down movements are made so quickly with your legs, that every time you peddle, a very concentrated amount of friction is created in the crotch area.
• Not washing your denim: While there is no hardset rule here, washing raw denim is often considered a cardinal sin that will surely destroy any chance of deep contrast fades (if done too soon). However, the caveat of avoiding a good wash is that it traps any grime, dust, and dirt between denim threads; exponentially loosening the fibers and leading to higher tension. Denim is tough, but when unwashed and worn over a long period of time, it literally become weaker and makes the crotch more susceptible to blowouts.

Considerable Patching

From the previous list you may be feeling that crotch blowouts are undeniable reality, but there are a several actions that can be taken to slow their occurrence; including:

• Early Detection - In an earlier article, we gave a few tips on how to detect a blowout in its infancy and what to do about it. Darning thinned areas and fixing loose threads on time is an excellent way to add months (and years) to the crotch.
• Looser Fitting Denim - If your denim is roomier, the crotch area will endure less stress and will therefore have a longer life.
• Washing Denim More Regularly - Washing your denim every few months will keep the fibers strong and clean. This will also help avoid the occurrence of blowouts and contrary to the belief of most, this will have minimal negative effects on your fades.
• Cycling Less – You may sacrifice deeper contrast fades, but you will gain a longer life for your denim. Or if you’re looking for a specific pair of raw denim catered to riding your two-wheeled steed, check out our earlier article outlining a few options.
• Reinforcing Your Crotch - Proposing a different strategy, some brands offer a simple built-in crotch reinforcement to help prevent or delay the blowout. The new ByBeatle - Volume One is one option, as well is the Self Edge x Sugar Cane – SEXSC06.

Reinforced Crotch on the Self Edge x Sugar Cane (SEXSC06)

Reinforced Crotch on the ByBeatle – Volume One

As mentioned, many consider crotch blowouts to just be a part of the process and an insignificant issue. However, by understanding why they happen and arming yourself with some of the tips above, you’re sure to inhibit this denim headache.

The post Denim Crotch Blowouts – Why They Happen And How to Avoid Them appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Tenue de Nimes x Momotaro

Being tall and being fashionable is not always an easy feat to accomplish. Personally being 6’3”, I have constantly struggled with finding denim that is able to fit me exactly the way that I want. So here’s the long-overdue shout out to all the tall guys, who want more than anything to find a pair of raw denim that will actually fit them.

Along with the help of some of our other taller writers, we have found 10 pairs of raw denim that have inseam lengths all above 34”. Finally, you won’t be looking with envy at your shorter companions and seeing the crazy stacks and options they get from their denim.

1. 3sixteen (37″)

3sixteen

3sixteen‘s jeans have seams tailored to the taller population across the board, their inseams all coming in at 37”. From the CS to the ST styles, they stay consistent in producing this length and usually feature a 14.5Oz. weight for all their jeans. For those who are looking for a medium weight jean and want many options that range between classic straight and slim looks, these are perfect for you.

They have the classic raw indigo color-ways and even some deviation with grey selvedge, shadow selvedge, and pure black color-ways. As an established company with a strong following, there’s no doubt you will be buying some of the best product available. Available at: rue + state or 3sixteen.

2. Rogue Territory (36″)

Rogue Territory

Rogue Territory is an LA-based brand who strive to promote locally made products and produce the highest quality possible. Their raw denim selections stay consistently at 36”, while their other types of pants range from 35” – 36”, which is great for us tall guys.

Along with the SK model, their iconic Stantons are 14.5 Oz., and come in raw or pre-washed styles. Rogue Territory is great for those guys who are not only looking for raw denim, but are also looking for great alternatives to their daily grind.  Their safari trousers, officer trousers, AR-G trousers and high-quality tee-shirt collection really make their company a one-stop shop for your needs. Available at: Rogue Territory from $155.00 -$230.00

3. NOIR (37”)

Noir

NOIR is an Australian menswear brand that has been able to stay under the radar for the time being, but the quality of their products has not. Bother of the their offering - the Jean 001 and Jean02 - come in 37″ inseams, with the former being 13 Oz. and cut with slim straight fit; and latter at 17 Oz. and showcasing more of a looser straight leg fit. Available at Up There Store for $319.00 AUD.

4. Momotaro (36″)

Momotaro

Momotaro’s motto is “Made by hand without compromise,” so you know you’re going to choose right by picking up a pair for yourself. Some people get absolutely hooked by the hand-made texture in their jeans and fortunately Momotaro has three set fits for their denim: classic straight, slim tapered, and tight straight, all of which are produced with a 36” inseam.

Depending on the style, their weight can range from 14.7 Oz. to 15.7 Oz. Check out Momotaro’s website to see illustrations of the different fits for yourself. Available at: Blue in Green for $315.

5. Railcar (35″)

Railcar

Railcar Fine Goods brings together tactical details and vintage techniques, utilizing every inch of their denim such that every part of it serves a purpose. Their denim weights range from 12 Oz. – 16 Oz, and come from either American Cone Mills or factories in Japan.

Railcar has unique styles and color-ways for their products, all with 35” inseam. If you’re looking for “outside of the box” styles with super durability, Railcar is worth a browse. They’re al known for their great repair work and available at: rue + state from $178.00 – $268.00.

6. Tellason (up to 35″)

Tellason

Tellason is another San Francisco-based company that seeks to make the proper pair of men’s jeans. The inseams of their products range from 34”-35”, which places it at the shorter end of our longer inseam list.

The majority of their product is variations on blue indigo denim and all of it is produced from Cone Mills, then constructed in California. Their products range from 12.5 Oz – 16.5 Oz. and suitable for guys who still haven’t found the style of jeans that fits their body best. They have a myriad of different styles, so take a look at their gallery and see all the different fits. Available at: Tellason for roughly $220.00.

7. Kapital (35″)

Kapital

Including both their denim and non-denim items, Japan’s Kapital produces very detail-oriented and unique goods which make for a wearing experience like no other. Their denim weight and inseam vary between pairs, so it’s vital to look into each fit when considering purchasing.

Specifically, the weight can range from 13.75 Oz. – 15 Oz. while some inseams are 34” – 35”. Even though their website is in Japanese, it is worthwhile to check out the fits they deem “basic” and those which are “creations”  as it will help every interested buyer with trying to find the perfect pair. Available at: Blue in Green ranging from $225 – $638.

8. Oni Raw (35″)

Oni

Oni is a Japanese company who still believes in doing denim differently. Considered one of the most slubby and texture-rich denim creators in the world, their denim weighs anywhere from  14Oz. – 20 Oz. (note: the 20 Oz. pair is amongst their newest releases).

However, the inseam of their denim measure a consistent 35” and they currently sell OX Canvas and Blue Indigo color-ways. The Oni craftsmanship and unique insignias really make their denim stand out above the rest. If you find yourself looking for a trusted, albeit more costly, pair of denim, make sure you look into Oni before you buy. Available at: Blue in Green, ranging from $258.00 – $685.00.

9. Samurai (39″)

Samurai

Samurai is a brand that practically every denim enthusiast has heard of at least once (if just because they tend to make for a good Fade Friday). Due to their quality, fit, craftsmanship, length, and/or handmade precision, Samurai remains one of the most talked about and most gawked over.

Their inseams are at a record high of 39”, so there’s no way you can be too tall to wear these. While many do soak their Samurai in order to shrink them, tall folks might be able to get away without having to do so (depending on your preference).

Their denim can range from 15 Oz. – 21 Oz., which makes them amongst the top contenders for heaviest denim as well. Since Samurai Jeans only releases styles in very limited bunches, if you plan on getting a pair then make sure to have your money ready. Available at: Blue in Green, from $325.00 – $825.00.

10. Studio D’Artisan (37.5″)

Studio D’Artisan

Studio D’Artisan is another Japanese company pushing the envelope in the denim world. While their blue indigo selvedge is amongst the elite, they also have many other styles like the chino trousers and already hand-distressed denim.

When browsing through their catalogue, make sure to take a look at their inseam because they are not all uniform in length. Their denim ranges from about 34.5” – 37.5,” but they keep their denim weight at a consistent 15 Oz. Studio D’Artisan creates more than just denim jeans, so make sure to take a look at their other products as well. Available at: Blue in Green from $198.00 – $325.00.

The post 10 Pairs Of Raw Denim With 34″+ Inseams appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Though it comes a little late in the game, if you’re still looking for a pair of raw denim for the upcoming months, we’ve provided 5 pairs of ready-for-summer denim for the benefit of you and your legs. We tried to make this list a bit more appropriate for the hot muggy summer weather, so each pair on this list has qualities that define “summer denim”.

In our opinion, this includes lightweight denim, lighter blue tones, slightly looser fits and even a pre-washed pair (we know, for shame…). The motivation behind this list is to pass along a few good options for denim without bathing your legs in sweat on a beach day or those hot summer nights.

1. Rogue Territory - Stanton Grey Caste

Lets be honest, we couldn’t start this list with a more appropriate pair of jeans. Rogue Territory’s Stanton Grey Caste are made from 10 oz Kaihara denim, and clearly contain the qualities one would dream of in a summer pair of jeans. The slim straight fit so your legs don’t feel like a sweaty mess, the lightweight denim allow for more flexibility and breathability, and with the lighter weight you wont have to wait long for them to break in either.

Another neat characteristic is the split selvedge on the jean. It adds a different look to your pair while minimizing wasted denim during the manufacturing process due to the fact that a ‘split cut’ uses more of the denim per pant. As a result, not only does it look unique, but means you’re being ecologically friendly too.

Available at: Rogue Territory for $195.00

2. Momotaro - Lot 1705

Second up is another lightweight denim from one of the heavyweights in the jeans game. These Momotaro Lot 1705 lightweight jeans are made from 10oz Momotaro original Japanese selvedge denim 100% Zimbabwe cotton so you know you’re getting a comfortable lightweight pair of jeans cut from the highest quality denim. The 1705′s  are low/mid rise slim tapered fits which provides space around the thighs without giving up on the “skinny” look. In all honestly, this would be my pick for a rich dark indigo pair of jeans for the summer.

Available at: Blue In Green for $225.00

3. Lee – 101 Rider (Dips Dry)

Lee’s 101 Rider 12oz denim is takes a modern take on a classic. This pair might be a bit heavier in weight than the previous two pairs but contains merits that makes them a strong candidate for a great summer pair. The 101 Rider has been dipped in natural indigo 5 times which gives it a greyish-blue tone, which should work well with brighter summer clothing. Plus, after a whole summers wear, that greyish tone will be fading in nicely in time for the fall.

We must also note that Lee’s 101 Rider are a semi slim pair with Lee’s signature left handed twill. Why is left hand twill so important you might ask? We would answer because the slightly open weave creates a lining-like feel which makes the overall denim softer. When that softness is paired with a semi slim cut; perfect.

Available at: Tenue de Nîmes for $266.00.

4. Railcar Fine Goods – Spikes x005

Railcar Fine Goods have really tailored their offerings to be both economic and high in quality. RFG’s Spikes x005 are a slim-straight low rise lightweight pair that is ideal for hotter weather. These are the lightest pair they offer in a 120z  Cone Mills blue line selvedge. The Spikes x005 also have a light indigo hue which will fade nicely during summertime activities. The Cone Mills denim will exhibit a “streaky appearance” when fades start to come in.

Available at: rue + state for $175.00

5. Levis Vintage Clothing - 1954 501z (Thumper Wash)

Being that Levis Vintage Clothing is my personal denim forte I would like to throw a bit of a curve-ball to our readers. Yes – I understand that we specifically deal with “raw” denim on this site but we must understand that you can’t have a summer outfit without some color. I’m not talking about wearing neon blue pants so you look like a blue highlighter, but a pair with a distinct shade that can really make an outfit pop. These 1954 501Z have just that. The 501z are a 12 0z red selvedge from Cone Mills that sits nicely at the waist and features a zipper fly with a slight taper from the knee down.

I personally have a lot of experience with this pair, the fades on this are real crisp and authentic, the color is a rusty bluish-green accurate to the look of a worn-in pair. You can’t go wrong with these in your summer closet. It’s important to note with this pair, you will likely want to size down for an optimal fit

Available at: UNIONMADE for $375.00

The post 5 Pairs of Raw Denim Jeans for Summer appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

For those who missed the first instalment earlier last week, we’re doing a series of reports from the expansive and denim-loving Bread & Butter tradeshow in Berlin. This second piece takes a look at some of the Japanese brands who made their presence felt with excellent showcases, as well as looking at one of the American brands on show. With over 500 brands, it was a challenge to choose just a few to highlight, but we think those included have held up their end with excellent and unique offerings.

Tellason

Tellason

We had the chance to talk with Tony Patella, one of the founders of Tellason at his booth briefly about his denim line. Through our conversation, his conviction and enthusiasm are contagious, as is the emphasis he places over and over on quality when talking about durable goods.

The philosophy behind the brand points to his beliefs that for a product to be worth purchasing it should be conceived and designed to last a long period of time. Consumerism is taking the quality standards to a lower level in the modern market place and they believe people tend to buy products that will be cheaper even if they last last short periods of time.

Tellason looks to the revival of the attitude of earlier days, when products were bought to last. At Bread & Butter they were presenting the mainline Tellason collection alongside a few novelties including a 10.5 oz. denim shirt, a jacket made together with the New York based store Palmer Trading Co, Japanese corduroys on their Ladbroke Grove fit and a surprise for the ladies that will be emerging into shops this coming August.

Momotaro and Japan Blue Jeans

Momotaro and Japan Blue Jeans

Katsu Manabe from the Overseas Division of Japan Blue Group showed us around the current and the forthcoming collections from Momotaro and Japan Blue Jeans. Like every new collection, there were many interesting additions to the traditional offerings for both brands there to be seen. Interestingly for two brands based strongly in denim, the additions included a wide variety of non-denim pieces including t-shirts, button downs, pants and jackets.

In their more familiar denim realm, Momotaro is busy preparing a few new cuts that are designed meet the demands of modern denim fans. While these cuts are mostly still on the design table, not quite yet ready to be sent to the sewing floors yet, we do know that most will be using the high quality Rampuya denim that Momotaro is well known for. These will keep the traditional ability of the brand’s denim to resist fading for a strikingly long time, producing exceptional fades when at long last the contrast does show through.

Pure Blue Japan

Pure Blue Japan

Stepping into the booth of Pure Blue Japan was a unique experience. Sui generis as a brand, PBJ focussed heavily around their low-tension shuttle loomed, imperfect, one of a kind rough and slubby denims in their booth. For many Japanese denim purists, this fabric is the holy grail of denim and is a real speciality of PBJ. That said, slubbiness isn’t everything they have to offer, as there were some examples on show of the dyeing done on the denim with pure, natural indigo.

Also on exhibition were a few 3D washings, showing the potential this naturally dyed fabric has. Beyond the denim, there were many indigo dyed t-shirts and long sleeve button downs as part of the exclusive garment selection. This booth also held one of the highlights of Bread and Butter, the AI-001, a 17 oz denim which Ken-Ichi Iwaya, PBJ‘s CEO describes with pleasure as one of a kind, having been hand dyed with natural indigo in Tokushima, Japan.

Dry Bones

Dry Bones

Dry Bones haven’t been a traditional presenter at Bread & Butter, in fact this was one of the first appearances by the Japanese brand in a European exhibition. This may surprise some, as they’ve been a stalwart in the field of Japanese Americana reproduction for the last 20 years, taking influence not just from traditioanl Americana sources but also a strong 40′s and 50′s rock influence.

They’d brought with them a striking collection of Hawaiian shirts, denim overalls, 40′s cuts and Type I and II denim jackets to show, giving viewers a glimpse into their take on the rockabilly era. If the collection and the response of show-goers to it was any indication, this will not be the last time we see them in Europe.

The post Bread & Butter Connect Summer 2013 – The Denim Showcase II appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

About a month before New York Fashion Week comes Trade Show week, where brands have a chance to show off their latest collection to a host of buyers and press for the upcoming seasonal cycle.

Two of the largest of the menswear shows are Capsule Man and Liberty Fairs, both of which had their showings for Spring/Summer 2014 in New York at the end of July. We were able to scope the newest denim offerings from everyone from Baldwin to Big John and have analysis and photos below.

General trends from S/S ’14 denim, however, include more workwear inspired details – specifically from the late 1950s and early 1960s, more heavily tapered fits, and a resurgence of washed and distressed denim.

Despite our cries to the contrary, washed jeans are coming back. Nearly every denim brand in attendance had at least one faded model on hand. But these pre-made fades aren’t your run-of-the-mill mall brand stonewash, the standard practice is to take a pair of raw jeans that have been beaten to hell to the wash house and ask them to recreate that wear on the fresh product. Not so much “dad jeans” as it is wearing someone else’s fades.

If you’ll pardon that aside, here’s what we took away from the New York Trade Shows.

Liberty Fairs

Rising Sun & Co.

Our Los Angeles-based buds at The Rising Sun & Co. are typically known for their intricate details and depression-era stylings. But owner and designer Mike Hodis is switching things up and taking slightly more contemporary cues from the 1940s and 50s.

They’ve taken a turn on a traditional anorak in a WWII German-styled camo print. Plus they bought out the remainder of a deadstock woven plaid fabric and turned it into backpacks, hats, vests, and jackets. Above is their classic Ranch Jacket.

Two of their biggest drops though are this raw 10oz. Tanker Jacket in 2×1 selvedge – it’s been a while since someone did something new with a denim jacket -and below, the Spade: their first pair of slim-fit buckleback jeans.

Ruell & Ray Deadstock

 Ashely James of Ruell and Ray had some double-front work pants with a slim fit.

And she’s brought out washes for the first time; see her classic Spence fit in both raw and distressed above. But true to the “deadstock” part of her name, she also had a killer pair of jeans in a 70s era light indigo denim. Recut and sewn but definitely not for disco.

 Kings of Indigo

Amsterdam-based Kings of Indigo made one of their first showings in the States at Liberty.

Most of their offerings are washed or stretch, but some of their fabrics are still very cool like this non-selvedge broken twill.

Good Genes

Like the large rooster on their logo, Good Genes is denim that gets attention. Their products featured a plethora of tonal stitching and visible selvedge.

Including the world’s first “fat selvedge” line on the hem of their jeans. Can’t say I’ve seen that before.

!iTEM Denim

!iTEM is an LA-based denim company that aspires to create contemporary fits instead of heritage reproductions. All of their models are raw and selvedge but some come with slightly unorthodox stitching when compared to your classic five pocket.

Capsule Man

Baldwin Denim

Kansas City denim makers Baldwin have gone deeper into washed jeans. They name their washes after the customers who created the original fades.

They’ve also continued to expand beyond just denim with a variety of shirts, knits, sweats, and chinos like the model below made out of the rare and elusive Cramerton twill from North Carolina.

Momotaro

Japanese label Momotaro showed off the typical staples of their line including a rerelease of both their Grand Indigo and Deep Indigo dark-weft denims.

The big announcement though is the introduction of a new fit, a “tight-tapered” model that will have an even slimmer leg and smaller leg opening than their Tight Straight cut.

 Naked & Famous

Brandon Svarc, Naked & Famous

Brandon Svarc came down with his whole team from Naked & Famous, those are his (in)famous 320z. jeans standing next to him. Their lookbook and their line grows thicker every year as they imagine more and more ridiculous ways to redefine jeans.

In S/S 14 they plan on extending their newest Super Skinny Guy fit to cover almost every fabric in their lineup. This year that line includes a new black waxed jean, complete with a patent leather patch.

Naked & Famous Black Waxed Denim

A pineapple fiber/cotton mix fabric has all the nice neppy pineapple fuzz but none of the sticky taste. The flavorful jeans are coming back too, however, with another scratch and sniff denim – this time in mint!

Naked & Famous Pineapple Denim

Other standouts include this jade weft jean that makes the indigo warp look almost iridescent.

And the wackiest/most practical of the bunch is a teflon-coated pair that is water repellent and resistant. See it beading water like a champ below.

Water Repellant Denim

Left Field

Brooklyn jeans operator Christian McCann and his company Left Field brought out one of the coolest Type II style jackets at the show. This one is in a dark 15oz. black selvedge with a camo lining. One of their team has 8 months wear on the same fabric on the right. This guy’ll age beautifully.

Left Field NYC Type II Jacket (left); Black 15 Oz. Denim (right)

Lee 101

One of the original big three, Lee, is starting to throw their weight around in the heritage scene. Their 101 collection inspired by their original jeans as popularized by James Dean.

Of anyone doing washes at the show, I have to say their’s were the most impressive.

Normally, wash and machine distress is fairly easy to spot, but Lee has somehow developed a way to reproduce that same texture, creases, and wear that you’d expect out of a heavily abused pair of jeans – they even wear down the crotch to near blowout level!

Aside from the washes, though, you can still grab both the 101b (button fly) and 101z (zip fly) in their raw and natural state. Each comes with their own set of proprietary details like tonal bar tacks, slightly different stitching, and different hides on the leather patch.

Jackets are back too.

Eat Dust

Keith and Rob, Eat Dust

Our Belgian friends Keith and Rob from Eat Dust have mixed in a country, hunting lodge type vibe with their usual biker style. They’ve got vests, blazers, and even OCBD’s on offer.

But the uniting theme of this year’s collection is the amazingly subtle, amazingly hilarious “Dirty Dozen” camo pattern they developed. Notice anything funny featured on the jacket on the left?

How about a closer look. Even if you’re apathetic about streetstyle vulgarity and obscenity, I think everyone can agree that this is amazing.

Han Kjobenhavn

Han Kjobenhavn started as an eyewear company in Denmark, as you’ll see above, but they’ve also devoted themselves to all things indigo including jeans and indigo dyed knits that fade like jeans.

They have the clean styling and sensibility we’ve come to expect from Nordic menswear.

Bowery Blues

Bowery Blues is a new Japanese jean line founded by denim veteran Takayuki Echigoya (below). He draws much of his inspiration from classic American models from the 1950s and 60s but adds his own twist.

The immediate standout is the substitution of traditional kimono fabric in place of denim behind the watch pocket.

Takayuki Echigoya, Bowery Blues

Don’t worry, those aren’t washes–just demos of what the jeans actually look like faded!

Indigofera

Indigofera is a Scandinavian denim brand with a biker edge. They use primarily non-selvedge raw denim to offer a lower price point, but they still bring some amazing fabric regardless.

This broken twill has an amazing nep to it. Glad to see broken twill is making somewhat of a comeback!

Big John

Big John, the brand that started it all, had their full line on display. By now, they offer every color, fit, texture, and weight combination you can imagine, but what impressed me most were the amazingly practical details built into every pair.

Their top of the line jean was chocked full of them. Including leather backed buttons, full lock stitching for durability and coolest of all – the jeans were cut and sewn to anticipate shrinkage. As you’ll see here, the leg already has an overcompensated leg twist that will line up straight once the unsanforized denim is soaked.

Overcompensated leg twist

Big John is also well known for their collabs, and this year they teamed up with Japanese artist, Rockin’ Jelly Bean, to produce a 3/4 strength dyed light blue jean and striped shirt in homage to the Beach Boys “Surfer Girl” album cover.

BIG JOHN x Rockin’ Jelly Bean

Canton Overalls

Canton is a new brand out of Japan that merges traditional workwear details like triple-stitching and bucklebacks with more avant garde designs. Their flagship model below features a cropped length, hyper-tonal stitching, and multiple types of denim.

Other models were slightly more sedate.

And that’s just about it from Capsule and Liberty Fairs from New York 2013. What stood out to you the most and what are your thoughts on the latest wave of denim?

The post New York Trade Show Recap – Capsule Man and Liberty Fairs appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday this week highlights a pair of Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label jeans worn for 14 months and washed many times. This frequent washing has interestingly brought out drastic contrasts throughout the jeans, particularly in the thigh regions and honeycombs where the fades are even more prominent. The pair was shared with us by forum user dennyprilendi, viewable through this thread.

Momotaro‘s vintage label features a shrink-to-fit construction as well as a rougher, slubbier denim and keeping consistent with their other jeans. This pair was constructed with pink selvedge, a pink lined inseam, and a deer skin leather patch. The 0201 Vintage Label model also features herringbone pocket bags with branded embossing.

Details

• Name: Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label
• Weight: 15.7 oz.
• Fit: Slim Straight
• Length of Wear: 14 months
• Washes: Many Washes
• Other Details:
  • 100% Natural Zimbabwe cotton
  • Rope dyed indigo
  • Deer Skin Leather Patch
  • Pink Selvedge
  • Pink Lined Inseam
• Available at: Blue In Green for $315.00 USD

Photos – Before

Photos – After

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Fade Friday – Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collab #2 (2 Years, Many Washes)

What do you get when you combine the artisan craftsmanship that Momotaro is so widely known for with the innovation and fits that have made Naked & Famous a household denim name? The answer is the second exceptional denim collaboration from two industry powerhouses.

It may seem like an odd pair initially. Momotaro is known for it’s old world, traditional craftsmanship and Naked & Famous is hailed for pushing boundaries in the denim industry with such releases as glow-the-dark and scratch and sniff jeans, but the two have turned out an excellent pair of jeans.

For their second collaboration, the parties used a 14 Oz. sanforized Japanese denim fabric that is expected to fade faster than their first collaboration. The denim is 100% cotton and features Momotaro‘s signature pink selvedge line. The jeans are offered in Naked & Famous’ Weird Guy fit and are made at Momotaro‘s studios in Kojima, Japan.

As well, this week’s Fade Friday comes to us from Evan, who works at N&F and has had these jeans for around two years. The jeans initially started out as his everyday pair but eventually made their way into his “beater” rotation while he was working for his father’s carpet cleaning company. These jeans have also seen countless paint jobs and moves, something evident by the paint smears left on them.

It is refreshing to see jeans that were lived in and used as actual “workwear” rather than treated like a museum piece. Also, it’s no surprise that the fades reflect this and possess an even and natural looking aesthetic. The multiple washes have also given the jeans a very light colouring, a stark contrast when compared to the deep indigo that the jeans started out with. The paint marks and other stains only add to the personal character that these jeans have. Though they have been worn heavily, these jeans have a lot of life left in them, whether as an everyday pair or as beaters used only for household chores.

Details:

• Name: Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collaboration #2
• Denim: 14oz Japanese Sandforized Indigo Selvedge
• Fit: Weird Guy
• Length of Wear: 2 years
• Washes: Many
• Other Details:
  • Pink Selvedge Line
  • Momotaro Branded Buttons
  • Made in Kojima, Japan
• Available at Blue Owl Workshop for $265.00.

Photos – Before

Naked & Famous x Momotaro 2

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collab #2 (2 Years, Many Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It’s no secret that we’re pretty big fans of Momotaro. The Japanese denim brand was started in 2006 in Kojima in Okayama, Japan and has been producing top quality, premium selvedge denim ever since. Every pair of Momotaro jeans is meticulously hand crafted in Japan, with exceptional attention to detail, making them durable, long lasting investment pieces that are sure to stand up to the rigors of daily wear.

The Vintage Label is made of a 15.7oz Zimbabwe Cotton denim and is dyed using only pure blue indigo. The result in an exceptionally dark indigo color that yields exceptional fades. This particular model has a fairly straight leg, with very little taper, but still produces excellent fades.

This week’s Fade Friday comes to us from forum user dennyprilendi who has worn the jeans for 11 months with almost daily wear. In that time, he’s put them through one ocean soak and no other washes, resulting in some beautiful fades. The ocean soak appears to have really brought out and highlighted some of the wear, increasing the contrast of the already impressive fades.

Some things to note are the well defined honeycombs on the back of the leg and the knee fades on the front that have some nice whiskering. These jeans are an excellent example of denim that hasn’t necessarily been worn for a long time but still has well defined fades that will only continue to develop as they are worn into the future. We look forward to seeing how they progress.

Check out the original forum here for more information on these jeans as well as pictures of how they have progressed in the 11 months that they have been worn.

Details

• Name: Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label Jeans
• Weight: 15.7oz
• Denim: Unsanforized Raw Indigo Zimbabwe Cotton
• Length of Wear: 11 Months
• Number of Washes: 1 Ocean Soak
• Available at: Blue in Green for $315.00.

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label (11 Months, 1 Sea Wash) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Momotaro has been one of the more prolific brands releasing a pretty wide variety of denim as well as collaborations with other brands and stores. This time around they’ve released a jean that features one of their more unique looking fabrics, the Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft 0702BR.

While it’s not unusual to see fabrics with brown and other colored wefts, the combination of the darker brown weft and the super dark indigo warp gives the jean a rusty red hue. The denim fabric is sanforized, weighs in at 15 oz and is made from 100% Zimbabwe cotton which has a smooth soft hand that will break in well over time.

The mid-weight will feel just right as many of us go into the cooler season. The jean features the usual Momotaro details: pink inseam thread and selvedge ID which represents the peach in the “Momotaro” folktale, hidden selvedge on the coin pocket, hidden back pocket rivets, deer skin leather patch, and canvas pocket bags.

At this point, it’s no question that Momotaro makes solid jeans made from quality fabrics with careful construction so these will be a great alternative to the more traditional looking jeans and will fit right in with darker earthy tones that many FW’13 collections are featuring. As usual, we look forward to seeing pictures as the 0702BR gets worn in and fades over time.

Details

• Name: Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft “Tight Straight” 0702BR 
• Weight: 15 Oz.
• Denim: 100% Zimbabwe cotton, Sanforized Denim with Dark Indigo Warp and Brown Weft
• Other Details:
  • Pink inseam thread
  • Pink selvedge representing the peach in the “Momotaro” folktale
  • Copper rivets
  • Canvas pocket bags
  • Hidden back pocket rivets
• Available at: Blue Owl for $295.00 USD

Photos

The post Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft 15oz “Tight Straight” – Model 0702BR appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Continuing the introduction of Sweden’s very own  Denim Demon, we profile one of the brand’s most exciting pieces, the aajja Jamtli Japan Jean. Just when we thought that things couldn’t get better for the Swedes, Denim Demon teamed up with famed Japanese denim house Momotaro to produce this interesting collaboration.

Co-founder Oskar Sommarlund explains:

We met Katsu, the European representative from Momotaro, the first time in Amsterdam back in 2008 thru mutual friends. He’s a really nice guy and we had a fun night out. Ever since then we’ve stayed in touch thru the years. We are big fans of Momotaro so when we wanted to produce in Japan it was an easy choice to go to them. Luckily they were up for it.

The two brands have had a continuing working relationship together and are looking to add yet another style to their collaborative line for their Spring/Summer 14 collection.

The jeans themselves are constructed of  15 Oz. Japanese sanforized red line selvedge denim from the Okoyama mills. They are cut with a straight fit to maintain the traditional motif that has gone into planning and constructing the denim. Additional details present on the jeans are the traditional Swedish Sami pattern pocketing and yoke fabric along with hidden rivets and embroidery on the back pockets.

Let’s not forget the additional red, green and blue embroidery along the back right pocket as well, which represents a small homage Oskar’s home county. An eloquently designed leather back patch, V-shaped pocket arcuates and branded waist and fly buttons bring the garment together for a clean finished product.

Details

• Name: Denim Demon aajja Japan 
• Weight: 15 Oz.
• Fit: Straight
• Denim: Raw Okoyama Mills Japanese Selvedge (Sanforized)
• Other Details:
  • Denim Demon leather back patch
  • Button Fly
  • Branded buttons
  • Stamped Leather front belt loop
  • Sami Fabric pocketing and yoke fabric
  • Red, Green, and Blue back embroidery
  • V shaped back pocket arcuates
  • Hidden back pocket embroidery
  • copped riveting at stress points
  • hidden back pocket rivets
  • Red Line selvedge
• Available for purchase at: Denim Demon for €250

The post aajja Japan: Denim Demon x Momotaro Collaborative Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Denver is a city on the rise. Thanks to its income-based tax structure, the city has weathered the recession better than most American cities so while the rest of the country has been getting back on its feet, they’ve been busy expanding its museums, arts centres, parks, public transit and airport for the past several years. That expansion has very recently brought about a new wave of art, restaurants, boutiques and yes, raw denim.

To give you a sense of how fast it’s growing, the second oldest, yes – oldest, store on this list just celebrated its first anniversary. With Colorado’s recent legalization of marijuana they’re only going to become more of a destination – word on the street is that both Hickoree’s and Haberdash are considering opening in the Mile High City.

It seems only natural that raw denim would be a good fit in a town founded by gold miners and I’ve got the feeling this guide can only cover the first few pioneers of many places that will soon call Denver home.

Steadbrook

If someone had told me that there’d be Vintage Label Momotaro‘s in South Denver a year ago, I’d have called them a liar. Well I’m happy to say the three guys at Steadbrook have proven me wrong. For the past seven months, Mackey Saturday, Dustin Pace, and Nathan Kilpatrick have been serving up New Wave Americana clothing and world class coffee to an ever growing number of fans.

The space itself was once the wing of a used book store, but the drop ceiling and the narrow shelves of yore have been swapped for Scandinavian minimalism in a vast open space with wood floors, white walls, and a sky high ceiling. The result is a vast open showroom with a coffee bar up front and apparel deeper into the store.

The denim on offer ranges from 3sixteen, Railcar Fine Goods, Japan Blue, and of course Momotaro. Other mens labels include Norse Projects, I Love Ugly, and Denver’s own Jiberish. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg at Steadbrook, expect to see many more big hitters in their next few seasons, plus the introduction of coffee that’s roasted in-store – how cool is that?

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Baker - 46 S. Broadway, Denver, CO 80204

Fancy Tiger Clothing

Fancy Tiger Clothing has been a men’s and women’s mainstay for almost eight years now. Husband and wife team, Matthew and Jaime Brown, opened the store in 2006 to showcase the products of local artisans. The concept was a huge success to the point that they outgrew their original space and relocated a couple blocks up Broadway to their current showroom in 2010.

The new store maintains the identity of the original while expanding into everything from local jewelry, home goods, apparel, and a selection of denim from Baldwin and Naked & Famous.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Baker - 55 Broadway, Denver, CO 80203

Berkeley Supply

We typically use the “One Man Brand” title for denim companies, but it’s also more than apt for Eli Cox and his store, Berkeley Supply. Weighing in at only 168 square feet, the shop is compact and cozy, evoking a one-room hunting cabin from Cox’s home state of New Hampshire. There’s wood everywhere – there’s semi finished plywood floors, denim sitting on piles of chopped cordwood and tree stumps and the shelving and trim in an unfinished pine.

Don’t mistake small size for small selection though; everything at Berkeley is made in USA and he’s got denim from Tellason, Rogue Territory, Taylor Stitch, Railcar Fine Goods, and Colorado’s own W.H. Ranch. He also keeps a good stock from Americana favourites Filson, Red Wing, Tanner Leather Goods, Field Notes, Topo Designs, and Archival Clothing.

Berkeley Supply also sits smack in between two bicycle shops, Pearl Velo and Avery County Cycles–the trio is known affectionately as The Tennyson Collective – so whether you looking to get kitted up or tuned up, Berkeley is the place to go.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Highlands - 4405 W 43rd Ave, Denver, CO 80212

Not denim, but worth a visit:

Topo Designs

If you’ve paid attention to the menswear/Americana resurgence at all in the last year, you’ve no doubt heard of Colorado based bag company, Topo Designs. The 70′s mountaineering revivalists have been going strong since 2009 but really hit their stride in 2013 as they jumped from a handful of stockists to now over 100 all around the world. To meet the demand, Topo moved shop from Boulder to a bright new flagship store in Denver’s RiNo neighbourhood this December.

The multicolored wares across the main wall make the place feel like an alpine candy store and the way stuff’s flying off the shelves does little to suggest otherwise. They’ve got the full Topo line on offer – including apparel and accessories from their new Oyo label – in every shade you can think of, including a few exclusive collaborations, along with a handful of camping odds and ends and a selection of menswear magazines. It feels like the romantic ideal of what REI or Patagonia might’ve been in the late 70s.

Even thought the store’s barely passed it’s one-month anniversary, it feels like the Topo team is going to anchor this section of Denver for a long, long time.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: RiNo – 2500 Larimer St., Denver, CO 80205

Winter Session

source: Winter Session

Occupying the non-technical side of Denver bags is Winter Session, a leather and canvas showspace and studio in the Five Points neighborhood. The company started in 2010 as a side project making wallets and messenger bags between Roy Katz and Linda Fleisher out of their apartment in Chicago. Their skill and design soon grew the operation to much more than a hobby and they moved back to their home state of Colorado last year to pursue it full time.

Winter Session Studio (source: Winter Session)

Roy and Linda have since added on four more employees and they all work out of their showroom, churning out everything from dopp kits to tote bags to aprons. Stop on by for a look at their wares or just a gander at some master makers practicing their craft.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Five Points – 2952 Welton St., Denver, CO 80205

Winter Session goods (source: Studio 9720)

Did we miss any of your Denver favorites? Sound off in the comments below.

The post Top Shops to Buy Raw Denim in Denver, Colorado appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It’s that time of year again: all of our favorite brands have finished tinkering away on their lines, the samples are set, and now it’s time to sell sell sell like their lives depend on it. That’s right, MARKET WEEK! Thousands of brand reps, buyers, and merchants flocked to New York City last week to show, preview, and buy their Autumn/Winter 2014 collections.

Market Week, however, is a bit of misnomer; all of the major men’s trade shows for New York City happened from January 21-23 but NYC is just a pit stop on the six-week globetrotting circuit many brands use to present their new lines. Many brands came from Berlin via Paris and many more will be in Los Angeles, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Las Vegas, and Tokyo before their tour is through.

Image source: selectism.com

This stop wasn’t an easy one. New York saw over a foot of snow and subzero wind chills on the first day of the shows, which grounded many flights, brought public transportation to a crawl, and put more than one Geobasket-ed goth ninja ass-down on the pavement. But enough inside baseball, let’s get to the clothes.

General Trends

You may remember from my Spring/Summer ’14 recap more washes and non-raw offerings looming on the horizon. They’re still there, but it seems to be toned back a bit as the colder seasons are generally more raw friendly.

The main trend I noticed is that everyone is striving to produce or create their own proprietary fabric. As many of our best known brands enter their tenth-plus season making raw denim jeans, they’ve grown bored or frustrated with the standard offerings from Japanese and American mills.

It used to be just 3sixteen with the claim to exclusive denim as a tiny company, but come this fall Left Field NYC, Tellason, and Baldwin will join their ranks with their own proprietary fabric. It looks to be the next step for brands to distinguish themselves in an increasingly crowded market where everyone is using roughly the same materials. We look forward to seeing who comes up with what proprietary blends next.

The Brands

Naked & Famous and Unbranded

Bahzad Trinos and Brandon Svarc of Naked & Famous and Unbranded giving us their serious face

Brandon Svarc and Bahzad Trinos always have a bevy of tricks ready with every new season. They’ve done scratch and sniff denim, glow in the dark denim (for kids too), and even heat-activated color-changing jeans. This season is no different, but their first offering is nothing to joke about–the infamous and hotly anticipated Elephant 4.

Naked & Famous‘ Elephant series is known for being super dark and super heavy–reminiscent of elephant skin–and this iteration more than lives up to the name. The E4 features 22 Oz. indigo warp over black weft sanforized Japanese selvedge denim, bright contrast yellow stitching, and a 10 Oz. buffalo leather patch. It will be offered in their Weird Guy tapered and Skinny Guy slim tapered fits.

Naked & Famous Elephant 4

On the wackier side of things, they’re issuing a spiritual successor of sorts to their Rainbow Core denim with a multicolored weft twill. Although the candy insides won’t fade in, little tufts of colored nep pop through the indigo face of the jean.

Sweat pant denim. For the stylish and slovenly.

The novelty show-stopper of this collection though was the reflective denim. You know that shiny material on construction vests or bike clothing? Well Brandon and Bahzad made denim yarns out of it. See Brandon’s “magic trick” below: take a photo of the reflective pair with a flash and all of the other jeans will disappear!

New things are also brewing on the pair’s entry level label, Unbranded. They’re releasing a new fabric, a 1% spandex 11oz stretch selvedge, and a new fit, the Tight based on the Super Skinny Guy fit. Both are expected this April. They’ve also really upped their game on leather patches.

Japan Blue and Momotaro

Straight out of Rampuya, Collect Mills and Japan Blue Group denim brands Japan Blue and Momotaro showed up with a variety of new fabrics from their Japanese labs.

The most interesting we saw is a “knit denim” that forgoes the typical weaving done on a loom. There’s no selvedge ID on these guys, but they fade and look just like traditional denim plus their interior feels like French terry cloth. Sweat denim, indeed.

Another of their summer offerings takes their 9oz selvedge chambray fabric and sews it up into jeans. The caste on these is almost iridescent.

They’re innovating on the Momotaro side of things as well.

Tatushi Tabuchi of Momotaro Jeans

In a similar vein to their Deep Indigo and Grand Indigo denims, they’re releasing a dark natural dyed indigo with a greycaste weft yarn. See the results of Tatushi’s fade below.

And going one step further from traditional dye types like kakishibu (i.e. persimmon – see Samurai Jeans‘ Kakishibu-Dyed 24 Oz. S5000KA as an example), they have a work shirt dyed in indigo and green tea.

3sixteen

3sixteen is also going lighter next season with an 11 Oz. denim, another exclusive from Kuroki Mills. In a more Japanese fashion, they’re offering these jeans once-washed–see the milky indigo runoff on the leather patch above. Andrew says the patches will be added after the wash to avoid that kind of indigo transfer, but I happen to think it looks pretty cool.

The team also updated all of their hardware, opting for vintage donut buttons and unpunched rivets (note the tufty fuzz) this time around.

On the non-denim side of the brand, Andrew and Johan are bringing out 3/4 sleeve leisure shirts with coconut buttons. A first for something made this side of the Pacific.

As much as a season for new things, it’s a resurrection of the old as well. 3sixteen‘s welcoming back flannels and waxed cotton bombers that haven’t been seen in years. These flannels ain’t your typical LL Bean button downs, though, they’re more the Japanese repro style you’d expect from The Flat Head or Iron Heart with thick yarns and huge checks to match.

The bomber, back from the dead.

And we couldn’t not show this pair of lovingly abused ST-100x‘s Andrew had on hand. The darning work on these must’ve taken ages.

Left Field NYC

Andrew Hamilton, Jonny Nichols, and Christian McCann of Left Field NYC

The boys from Queens were out in force as Left Field NYC has clarified its vision over the past few seasons into a line of solidly constructed American workwear. This year is no different. Christian McCann and his team continue to discover new and interesting fabrics for their two jean fits.

Now intimately familiar with American and Japanese mills, the team sourced this super neppy green ID denim from the Candiani Mill in Italy.

Wanting to branch into their own fabric, Left Field is doing their own dyeing on Cone Mills natural selvedge denim to create their own colors.

And in their knit division, they’ve created a pair of sweatpants out of the same 18 Oz. indigo terry used in their iconic sweatshirt. They’re all ready to go for a SuFu competition so the fades on these are going to be stretched to the limit.

In sweatshirts, they’ve got a new hoodie with an old twist. Like old Champion sweats, they stitched the hood on top of an already finished crew neck–that’s versatility in manufacturing, right there.

Big John

Ryuchi Adachi and Risa Saito of Big John

Japan’s first denim brand arrived with largely their same strong collection.

In jackets, however, they’ve adapted the unsanforized shrink to fit denim from their flagship Rare jeans into a shrink-to-fit trucker jacket.

And the ongoing collaboration between Big John and artist Rockin’ Jelly Bean has entered its third and final iteration. Where the last collab focused on the denim of the Beach Boys in the early 60s, this pair aims to emulate the jeans of the 60s and early 70s Woodstock era rock and roll. They come raw as well as in a super washed out vintage cast.

Another standout was this MA-1 jacket with nylon sleeves and a black denim body. Not sure how/if it will fade, but the details and the feel were spot on.

Ardent readers will recognize these jeans from our fade friday last july. Well they belong to Big John designer Ryuchi Adachi, and he’s put in a good bit more wear on them.

Tellason

You probably know the 12oz Cone Mills indigo duck canvas on the jeans in the photo below, but what you probably don’t know is that Cone Mills has discontinued the fabric and Tellason has developed an exclusive run. As such, they’re using a lot of it!

Their chore coat has it,

and their trucker has it too.

They’ve also produced this collaboration vest with raincoat maker Freeman Seattle. Although one may question the rain stopping power of a semi-waterproof vest, it looks pretty neat.

Eat Dust

Our old friends Keith and Rob of Eat Dust are still raising hell and making jeans in Copenhagen. This season they’re moving into footwear as well as women’s denim.

But they aren’t making any compromises for the ladies; Keith and Rob are using the same 14oz 100% cotton denim they use on their men’s jeans. That’s right, no stretch!

Their infamous “dirty dozen” camo is also back this season on bags, jackets, vests, and this amazing poncho, which when combined with three other ponchos can create a small tent!

Baldwin

Matt Baldwin and his Kansas City crew have been racking up acclaim from the likes of GQ, Esquire, and Vogue. Despite the mainstream acceptance, they still put out jeans that will satisfy any denim nerd. After four years of testing out pretty much every mill and denim out there, Baldwin has created their own exclusive denim with the collaboration of Kuroki Mills. It’s a 14 Oz. sanforized black line selvedge that they’re using throughout their line see below:

They’re also doubling down on washes, introducing a new black resin wash.

Dickies 1922

Dickies 1922 returned with largely the same collection but with one new standout–this apron, cut across the full width of a selvedge 2×1 denim bolt.

Lee 101

Lee‘s heritage collection, 101, is also sticking with their washes. They’ve developed a new technique however, that minimizes the amount of water used in distressing their jeans to one liter or less.

But don’t worry, you can still get ‘em raw. They’ve also gone back to producing their denim with their original gold-line selvedge ID.

Natural Selection Denim

UK based brand, Natural Selection, brought their “Darwinism of denim” collection to New York. Their philosophy is that only the denim you choose to wear will achieve the wear needed to evolve so their environmental bent is only appropriate. They use organic and natural materials wherever possible including potato starch to set the rigidity of their jeans.

Below is a jacket from their “No Evil/Live On” collection, a select run of discontinued Cone Mills denim they’ve sat on for years, and their designer John Park in a brand new pair of their tapered fit.

Apolis

The indigo obsessed Apolis‘ chosen material for next winter is appropriately wool. They’ve taken the success they’ve had with their indigo wool chore coat and created a shirt jacket and dress pants to match.

New Brands

Fundamental Agreement Luxury

Fundamental Agreement Luxury may sound like a philosophical day spa, but it’s actually the name of a heritage Japanese denim company that has been making jeans in Tokyo for the past eight years. Only this season have they made their move to conquer the rest of the world.

Designer Gaku Tsuyoshi of Fundamental Agreement Luxury

They offer a variety of fits from skinny to heritage straight but all bear their trademark Shinto bell next to the left pocket. Don’t worry about sounding like a lost cat, though, it’s easily removable.

The price point is dead on. The jeans milled and produced entirely in Japan will retail for under $200.00.

The denim felt crisp and evolves beautifully, as Gaku’s fades below demonstrate. And after operating in Japan for nearly a decade, they will have worked out all the kinks that come with designing and manufacturing jeans. Add to that the mid-tier price and I’m very interested to see Fundamental make the transition stateside.

Shockoe Denim

On the domestic front is Shockoe Denim. Operating out of Richmond, Virginia for just over a year now, Shockoe sources their denim from Cone Mills and Japan’s Collect Mills while manufacturing everything out of their Richmond showroom.

The jeans show many vintage details like single-needle stitching and double-clasp rivets exposed on the back pockets.

But just because they’re going vintage in construction doesn’t mean they’re slaves to old fabrics. See below two of their picks from Collect; a neppy blanket denim and an incredibly slubby 18oz-er (read up on our previous article outlining the difference between nep and slub).

 Here’s another shot of the amazing irregularity you get with heavy weight denim at low tension.

That about wraps it up. What do you think about what’s on offer for denim in AW14? Sound off in the comments below and be sure to check back in for our continuing coverage on the leather goods at the show!

The post NYC Market Week Denim Recap – Autumn/Winter 2014 appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

One of Massdrop’s potential jean drops

If you think vintage label Momotaro for $170.00 sounds too good to be true, you’re right. But that was almost the reality for almost 200 users of the group buy website, Massdrop, before Momotaro shut down the deal.

Massdrop is a young tech startup that organizes wholesale buys of a single product for a heavily discounted price. Massdrop has facilitated “drops” in mechanical keyboards, car parts, 3D printers, and most recently, raw denim.

Users create polls featuring a variety of products, the community then votes for their favorite item, and Massdrop contacts the vendor to arrange a wholesale deal. Massdrop posts the item with a week deadline to collect orders then places the order with the vendor, receives the goods in one large shipment, and distributes them to their users.

A recent raw denim poll on the site.

The winners of two recent “Raw Denim” polls were Momotaro 702s and Japan Blue 0401s. Massdrop contacted the Rampuya & Co. (the umbrella company for Momo and JB) and set a rate of $179.99 for the Momo’s and $110.00 for the JB’s–considerably below their MSRPs of $295 and $200, respectively. The postings garnered over 300 orders total and Massdrop sent them in.

One of Massdrop’s sample photos for the Momotaro 702

And here’s where things got tricky. Rampuya responded that they would still fulfill the JB orders, but that $179.99 was too low for Momotaro and they were canceling the offer. Massdrop wired money for the JB order and scrambled to salvage the Momotaro jeans but set a hard deadline for refunding their users’ money if they could not reach an agreement.

That deadline passed on February 21 and Massdrop issued a full refund plus a credit to any future purchases on the site. In the same time period, Japan Blue bounced back the money from Massdrop’s wire transfer and said it wouldn’t ship that order either, leaving several hundred potential customers denimless and disappointed.

We spoke with Momotaro General Manager Tatsushi Tabuchi who said that the issue stems from miscommunication. In an email he wrote,

They would sell our denim [at] the discount price without sufficient explanation to us. For example, 0702 was $170. It is too [much of a] discount. This price is at a price that was clearly wrong, we were not able to accept [it]. Be[ing] sold at a price too low will lower the brand value. Cause all thing were happened by what they sold without a sufficient explanation to us [sic].

Tabuchi believed they would be selling the denim wholesale to Massdrop but was unaware they would be offering that price to consumers as well, something that would hurt Momotaro‘s brand value as they are rarely offered on sale. When other American Momotaro retailers began to complain about the discounted price, Momotaro realized what was actually happening and backed out of the order as quickly as possible.

Tabuchi Tatsushi representing Momotaro at Capsule Man in January

Massdrop founder and CEO, Steve El-Hage, agrees that communication was a big problem in the drop, specifically citing the barriers created by differences in language and location. El-Hage admits this was not only their first raw denim order but also their first with a Japanese company and they didn’t have a translator on staff or a complete understanding of Japanese business practices. So when things with the drop started looking shaky they tried to act quickly or lose credibility with their newfound raw denim customers.

“We tried to be as transparent and honest with our customers about what happened.” El-Hage explains, “The worst thing would have been to drag this on for months so we set a hard deadline for a refund after one week, and we unfortunately had to follow through on it.” To prevent issues like this from arising in the future, Massdrop now requires vendors to sign contracts before each sale is posted on the site and they will be using an intermediary agency for future deals with Japanese companies.

Despite the outcome, El-Hage says he still had a very positive experience with the raw denim community, “When we had to tell them about the canceled shipment, we thought they [the buyers in the drop] were going to rip us apart, but everyone’s been really supportive and understanding.” And it looks like Massdrop has no plan to leave raw denim anytime soon as they just finished two recent drops with American jeans makers, Rising Sun & Co. and Taylor Stitch.

El-Hage even said he’d be open for another deal with Momotaro, including the honoring the 702 drop. “At the end of the day,” he says, “I just want to get people their jeans.”

The post The Momotaro x Massdrop Mixup appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Based in the Netherlands, Tulp Jeans is a small operation run by Jesper Remmerswaal from a room at the back of his cozy apartment in the charming town of Delft. His passion for raw denim was instilled originally by his brother who taught him the secrets of the blue fabric and inspired him to push himself for more knowledge about jeans. As kids, they experimented with sandpapering the jeans, making holes on the fabric, repairing them, and even using bleach and paint, pretty much all that they could throw at the jeans to see what results and effects on the fabrics they could achieve.

It was this strong curiosity to know and learn that inspired Remmerswaal to study fashion with an emphasis on the design and construction of jeans. He was able to procure an old industrial sew machine to practice at home and was quickly became fascinated by the allure of denim and vintage sewing machines.

The motivation that pushed him to create Tulp Jeans was the drive make a pair of jeans with a typical Dutch flavour. And what better way to express the spirit of the Netherlands than with with their famous flower, the tulip? After brainstorming he decided to use the tulip as not only an image but also the name for his brand and the characteristic Dutch shape can be seen in the back pockets and in the fifth-pocket.

For his jeans he uses Japanese denim, sourced the Collect Mill, same mill as Momotaro’s denim, though he has also expanded recently into experimentation with American denim. His preference has been to use a minimum of 14oz denim, as in his experience it gives the finest works. For the inside, he has always have found it annoying that pockets bags broke within the first year of use so he came up with the idea to use a sturdy canvas to the point that now the linings of his jeans could almost outlast the denim itself! He also like to place the rivets in an old fashion way, not with a machine but manually hammering them in by hand.

Left, Remmerswaal sewing skills Right down, rivets and buttons.

Left, rivets worked by hand. Right, Remmerswaal on his work place

Remmerswaal has collected through the years a small but impressive collection of industrial sewing machines, giving the jeans the authentic touch that many denim heads strive for. He works with a Union Special 35800 feed off arm chainstich, one Reece101 keyhole machine, an Union Special 6900 Beltloop machine and an Union Special 39200 overlock.

Left, Reece machine Right, Union Special

Old Union Special

When asked about the future of Tulp Jeans, Remmerswaal says that he would like to have a production label that makes his brand available in various stores in the Netherlands and perhaps abroad. He also aspires to open an atelier where people can walk in and give their own preferences for a custom made jeans service, choosing denim, rivets, buttons, coloured yarns and more.

“The market for jeans is very big in the Netherlands. Wearing raw denim is increasingly beginning to grow. I think that for the raw denim lovers, smaller jeans brands who design until the final result with passion are more appreciated than big ones that are produced in an industrial way in factories” says Remmerswaal.

Left, denim bag made from 14.5 oz. Japanese selvedge, Right, Tulp yarns

Tulp Jeans are still a small brand trying to find their own place on the raw denim market, the competition is harsh and there have been more than a few casualties. That said, the passion reflected in the product is something that is not easily recreated and Remmerswaal captures this passion and puts it in every single yard, rivet, and stitch. You can find out a little more at Tulp Jeans as well as on Facebook.

The post Jesper Remmerswaal, Tulp Jeans – One Man Brand appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collab #2 (2 Years, Many Washes)

What do you get when you combine the artisan craftsmanship that Momotaro is so widely known for with the innovation and fits that have made Naked & Famous a household denim name? The answer is the second exceptional denim collaboration from two industry powerhouses.

It may seem like an odd pair initially. Momotaro is known for it’s old world, traditional craftsmanship and Naked & Famous is hailed for pushing boundaries in the denim industry with such releases as glow-the-dark and scratch and sniff jeans, but the two have turned out an excellent pair of jeans.

For their second collaboration, the parties used a 14 Oz. sanforized Japanese denim fabric that is expected to fade faster than their first collaboration. The denim is 100% cotton and features Momotaro‘s signature pink selvedge line. The jeans are offered in Naked & Famous’ Weird Guy fit and are made at Momotaro‘s studios in Kojima, Japan.

As well, this week’s Fade Friday comes to us from Evan, who works at N&F and has had these jeans for around two years. The jeans initially started out as his everyday pair but eventually made their way into his “beater” rotation while he was working for his father’s carpet cleaning company. These jeans have also seen countless paint jobs and moves, something evident by the paint smears left on them.

It is refreshing to see jeans that were lived in and used as actual “workwear” rather than treated like a museum piece. Also, it’s no surprise that the fades reflect this and possess an even and natural looking aesthetic. The multiple washes have also given the jeans a very light colouring, a stark contrast when compared to the deep indigo that the jeans started out with. The paint marks and other stains only add to the personal character that these jeans have. Though they have been worn heavily, these jeans have a lot of life left in them, whether as an everyday pair or as beaters used only for household chores.

Details:

• Name: Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collaboration #2
• Denim: 14oz Japanese Sandforized Indigo Selvedge
• Fit: Weird Guy
• Length of Wear: 2 years
• Washes: Many
• Other Details:
  • Pink Selvedge Line
  • Momotaro Branded Buttons
  • Made in Kojima, Japan
• Available at Blue Owl Workshop for $265.00.

Photos – Before

Naked & Famous x Momotaro 2

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Naked & Famous x Momotaro Collab #2 (2 Years, Many Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It’s no secret that we’re pretty big fans of Momotaro. The Japanese denim brand was started in 2006 in Kojima in Okayama, Japan and has been producing top quality, premium selvedge denim ever since. Every pair of Momotaro jeans is meticulously hand crafted in Japan, with exceptional attention to detail, making them durable, long lasting investment pieces that are sure to stand up to the rigors of daily wear.

The Vintage Label is made of a 15.7oz Zimbabwe Cotton denim and is dyed using only pure blue indigo. The result in an exceptionally dark indigo color that yields exceptional fades. This particular model has a fairly straight leg, with very little taper, but still produces excellent fades.

This week’s Fade Friday comes to us from forum user dennyprilendi who has worn the jeans for 11 months with almost daily wear. In that time, he’s put them through one ocean soak and no other washes, resulting in some beautiful fades. The ocean soak appears to have really brought out and highlighted some of the wear, increasing the contrast of the already impressive fades.

Some things to note are the well defined honeycombs on the back of the leg and the knee fades on the front that have some nice whiskering. These jeans are an excellent example of denim that hasn’t necessarily been worn for a long time but still has well defined fades that will only continue to develop as they are worn into the future. We look forward to seeing how they progress.

Check out the original forum here for more information on these jeans as well as pictures of how they have progressed in the 11 months that they have been worn.

Details

• Name: Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label Jeans
• Weight: 15.7oz
• Denim: Unsanforized Raw Indigo Zimbabwe Cotton
• Length of Wear: 11 Months
• Number of Washes: 1 Ocean Soak
• Available at: Blue in Green for $315.00.

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Momotaro 0201 Vintage Label (11 Months, 1 Sea Wash) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Momotaro has been one of the more prolific brands releasing a pretty wide variety of denim as well as collaborations with other brands and stores. This time around they’ve released a jean that features one of their more unique looking fabrics, the Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft 0702BR.

While it’s not unusual to see fabrics with brown and other colored wefts, the combination of the darker brown weft and the super dark indigo warp gives the jean a rusty red hue. The denim fabric is sanforized, weighs in at 15 oz and is made from 100% Zimbabwe cotton which has a smooth soft hand that will break in well over time.

The mid-weight will feel just right as many of us go into the cooler season. The jean features the usual Momotaro details: pink inseam thread and selvedge ID which represents the peach in the “Momotaro” folktale, hidden selvedge on the coin pocket, hidden back pocket rivets, deer skin leather patch, and canvas pocket bags.

At this point, it’s no question that Momotaro makes solid jeans made from quality fabrics with careful construction so these will be a great alternative to the more traditional looking jeans and will fit right in with darker earthy tones that many FW’13 collections are featuring. As usual, we look forward to seeing pictures as the 0702BR gets worn in and fades over time.

Details

• Name: Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft “Tight Straight” 0702BR 
• Weight: 15 Oz.
• Denim: 100% Zimbabwe cotton, Sanforized Denim with Dark Indigo Warp and Brown Weft
• Other Details:
  • Pink inseam thread
  • Pink selvedge representing the peach in the “Momotaro” folktale
  • Copper rivets
  • Canvas pocket bags
  • Hidden back pocket rivets
• Available at: Blue Owl for $295.00 USD

Photos

The post Momotaro Deep Indigo Brown Weft 15oz “Tight Straight” – Model 0702BR appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Continuing the introduction of Sweden’s very own  Denim Demon, we profile one of the brand’s most exciting pieces, the aajja Jamtli Japan Jean. Just when we thought that things couldn’t get better for the Swedes, Denim Demon teamed up with famed Japanese denim house Momotaro to produce this interesting collaboration.

Co-founder Oskar Sommarlund explains:

We met Katsu, the European representative from Momotaro, the first time in Amsterdam back in 2008 thru mutual friends. He’s a really nice guy and we had a fun night out. Ever since then we’ve stayed in touch thru the years. We are big fans of Momotaro so when we wanted to produce in Japan it was an easy choice to go to them. Luckily they were up for it.

The two brands have had a continuing working relationship together and are looking to add yet another style to their collaborative line for their Spring/Summer 14 collection.

The jeans themselves are constructed of  15 Oz. Japanese sanforized red line selvedge denim from the Okoyama mills. They are cut with a straight fit to maintain the traditional motif that has gone into planning and constructing the denim. Additional details present on the jeans are the traditional Swedish Sami pattern pocketing and yoke fabric along with hidden rivets and embroidery on the back pockets.

Let’s not forget the additional red, green and blue embroidery along the back right pocket as well, which represents a small homage Oskar’s home county. An eloquently designed leather back patch, V-shaped pocket arcuates and branded waist and fly buttons bring the garment together for a clean finished product.

Details

• Name: Denim Demon aajja Japan 
• Weight: 15 Oz.
• Fit: Straight
• Denim: Raw Okoyama Mills Japanese Selvedge (Sanforized)
• Other Details:
  • Denim Demon leather back patch
  • Button Fly
  • Branded buttons
  • Stamped Leather front belt loop
  • Sami Fabric pocketing and yoke fabric
  • Red, Green, and Blue back embroidery
  • V shaped back pocket arcuates
  • Hidden back pocket embroidery
  • copped riveting at stress points
  • hidden back pocket rivets
  • Red Line selvedge
• Available for purchase at: Denim Demon for €250

The post aajja Japan: Denim Demon x Momotaro Collaborative Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Denver is a city on the rise. Thanks to its income-based tax structure, the city has weathered the recession better than most American cities so while the rest of the country has been getting back on its feet, they’ve been busy expanding its museums, arts centres, parks, public transit and airport for the past several years. That expansion has very recently brought about a new wave of art, restaurants, boutiques and yes, raw denim.

To give you a sense of how fast it’s growing, the second oldest, yes – oldest, store on this list just celebrated its first anniversary. With Colorado’s recent legalization of marijuana they’re only going to become more of a destination – word on the street is that both Hickoree’s and Haberdash are considering opening in the Mile High City.

It seems only natural that raw denim would be a good fit in a town founded by gold miners and I’ve got the feeling this guide can only cover the first few pioneers of many places that will soon call Denver home.

Steadbrook

If someone had told me that there’d be Vintage Label Momotaro‘s in South Denver a year ago, I’d have called them a liar. Well I’m happy to say the three guys at Steadbrook have proven me wrong. For the past seven months, Mackey Saturday, Dustin Pace, and Nathan Kilpatrick have been serving up New Wave Americana clothing and world class coffee to an ever growing number of fans.

The space itself was once the wing of a used book store, but the drop ceiling and the narrow shelves of yore have been swapped for Scandinavian minimalism in a vast open space with wood floors, white walls, and a sky high ceiling. The result is a vast open showroom with a coffee bar up front and apparel deeper into the store.

The denim on offer ranges from 3sixteen, Railcar Fine Goods, Japan Blue, and of course Momotaro. Other mens labels include Norse Projects, I Love Ugly, and Denver’s own Jiberish. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg at Steadbrook, expect to see many more big hitters in their next few seasons, plus the introduction of coffee that’s roasted in-store – how cool is that?

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Baker - 46 S. Broadway, Denver, CO 80204

Fancy Tiger Clothing

Fancy Tiger Clothing has been a men’s and women’s mainstay for almost eight years now. Husband and wife team, Matthew and Jaime Brown, opened the store in 2006 to showcase the products of local artisans. The concept was a huge success to the point that they outgrew their original space and relocated a couple blocks up Broadway to their current showroom in 2010.

The new store maintains the identity of the original while expanding into everything from local jewelry, home goods, apparel, and a selection of denim from Baldwin and Naked & Famous.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Baker - 55 Broadway, Denver, CO 80203

Berkeley Supply

We typically use the “One Man Brand” title for denim companies, but it’s also more than apt for Eli Cox and his store, Berkeley Supply. Weighing in at only 168 square feet, the shop is compact and cozy, evoking a one-room hunting cabin from Cox’s home state of New Hampshire. There’s wood everywhere – there’s semi finished plywood floors, denim sitting on piles of chopped cordwood and tree stumps and the shelving and trim in an unfinished pine.

Don’t mistake small size for small selection though; everything at Berkeley is made in USA and he’s got denim from Tellason, Rogue Territory, Taylor Stitch, Railcar Fine Goods, and Colorado’s own W.H. Ranch. He also keeps a good stock from Americana favourites Filson, Red Wing, Tanner Leather Goods, Field Notes, Topo Designs, and Archival Clothing.

Berkeley Supply also sits smack in between two bicycle shops, Pearl Velo and Avery County Cycles–the trio is known affectionately as The Tennyson Collective – so whether you looking to get kitted up or tuned up, Berkeley is the place to go.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Highlands - 4405 W 43rd Ave, Denver, CO 80212

Not denim, but worth a visit:

Topo Designs

If you’ve paid attention to the menswear/Americana resurgence at all in the last year, you’ve no doubt heard of Colorado based bag company, Topo Designs. The 70′s mountaineering revivalists have been going strong since 2009 but really hit their stride in 2013 as they jumped from a handful of stockists to now over 100 all around the world. To meet the demand, Topo moved shop from Boulder to a bright new flagship store in Denver’s RiNo neighbourhood this December.

The multicolored wares across the main wall make the place feel like an alpine candy store and the way stuff’s flying off the shelves does little to suggest otherwise. They’ve got the full Topo line on offer – including apparel and accessories from their new Oyo label – in every shade you can think of, including a few exclusive collaborations, along with a handful of camping odds and ends and a selection of menswear magazines. It feels like the romantic ideal of what REI or Patagonia might’ve been in the late 70s.

Even thought the store’s barely passed it’s one-month anniversary, it feels like the Topo team is going to anchor this section of Denver for a long, long time.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: RiNo – 2500 Larimer St., Denver, CO 80205

Winter Session

source: Winter Session

Occupying the non-technical side of Denver bags is Winter Session, a leather and canvas showspace and studio in the Five Points neighborhood. The company started in 2010 as a side project making wallets and messenger bags between Roy Katz and Tanya Fleisher out of their apartment in Chicago. Their skill and design soon grew the operation to much more than a hobby and they moved back to their home state of Colorado last year to pursue it full time.

Winter Session Studio (source: Winter Session)

Roy and Tanya have since added on four more employees and they all work out of their showroom, churning out everything from dopp kits to tote bags to aprons. Stop on by for a look at their wares or just a gander at some master makers practicing their craft.

Visit their website for more information or drop by their shop at: Five Points – 2952 Welton St., Denver, CO 80205

Winter Session goods (source: Studio 9720)

Did we miss any of your Denver favorites? Sound off in the comments below.

The post Top Shops to Buy Raw Denim in Denver, Colorado appeared first on RawrDenim.com.